Sergio Solache, Special for USA TODAY
OTUMBA, Mexico — You can hear the Burroland donkey shelter long
before seeing it. The braying mixes with the lonely whistles of
freight trains in this small town outside Mexico City.
In a vacant lot beside the railroad tracks, 20
donkeys wander behind a wire fence, munching carrots and leftover
tortillas and waiting for pats on the head from the occasional
tourist.
This shelter for unwanted donkeys would have
once seemed a laughable idea in Mexico, where the hard-working burro
is practically a national symbol, manager German Flores says.
But Mexico's donkeys are quickly being replaced
by pickups and tractors even in the poorest areas, prompting efforts
to save the unwanted animals and to remind Mexicans how much their
country owes to these beasts of burden.
"People love them, but there's not as much work
for them anymore," says Luis Huerta, a member of the Donkey Sanctuary
of Mexico, a group of veterinarians that helps the Burroland shelter.
An important part of history
Mexico's donkey population has plummeted to
581,000 in 2007, from 1 million in 1991, according to Mexican
government statistics. Many are killed by their owners or end up in
slaughterhouses, Mexico's Society for the Protection of Animals says.
It's a sad end for an animal that once thrived
in Mexico. Burros — a Spanish term for medium-size donkeys used as
pack animals — were brought to the New World by Spanish colonists,
says Leah Patton of the American Donkey and Mule Society.
Otumba, 45 miles northeast of Mexico City,
became a major animal market. Burros sold here hauled silver and gold
from mines, bringing wealth to the Spanish empire. They also carried
silks and spices from the Pacific Ocean to the Atlantic as part of the
trade route to Asia. They accompanied pioneers pushing west and north
through the Americas.
"These are animals that basically built the
continent," Patton says.
Mexican speech and culture is full of
references to burros, from the "burrito" style of soft taco to "Burro
16," a game known as leapfrog in English. Every weekend, thousands of
Mexicans cheer on the White Burros, the sports teams of the National
Polytechnic Institute, Mexico's second-largest college. Burros painted
like zebras have become a kitschy tourist attraction in Tijuana.
Otumba holds an annual Burro Festival in late
April and early May, with donkey races, a costume contest for donkeys
and games of burro polo.
In most parts of Mexico, burros are associated
with backwardness and rural poverty, Huerta says. As Mexicans become
wealthier, many farmers are getting rid of their animals.
"They're not even worth 500 pesos ($38) these
days," Flores says. "The people who have burros are peasants over age
60 who still value the animal's work. The newer generations prefer a
pickup or a tractor to a burro."
Efforts to protect the burro
The burros' fate has inspired some action to
save them. Donkey Sanctuary sends a mobile veterinary clinic around
the country to treat the animals for free because farmers no longer
want to spend money caring for them.
The Mexican Society for the Protection of
Animals is campaigning to bar the killing of unwanted donkeys and
horses at slaughterhouses. The government of Jalisco state imported a
few male donkeys from a taller, stronger breed developed in Kentucky
to revive interest in the animals for farmers.
Flores, an accountant, bought some land next to
his family's home and opened the Burroland shelter in 2006. The place
is not exactly scenic. There is no grass, and the donkeys wander among
rusting 1940s-era cars scattered around the lot.
Visitors are given fake burro ears and tails to
wear as they visit a small museum to learn about the animals' history.
Children can pose for pictures with staff members dressed like the
donkey from Shrek or Eeyore from Winnie the Pooh. Admission is
free.
Flores also plans to sell a comic book he is
writing about "Super Burro," a white donkey who works to prevent the
extinction of burros in Latin America.
The shelter depends on donations from visitors,
local companies and international groups such as Donkey Sanctuary in
Britain. It costs about $15 a day to feed each burro, Flores says.
"I'd like to have more burros here, but it
would be irresponsible because we don't have the money to keep and
feed them," he says.
The animals have colorful histories. Roberto
used to pull a junk collector's cart in Mexico City until he was hit
by a bus and broke both front legs. Apache was rescued from a forest
fire.
Flores says about 30 visitors show up on a good
weekend. He wants to add a snack shop, expand the museum and build
stables for all the burros.
"We want it to be a sustainable project and
leave it as a legacy for Otumba and all of Mexico," he says.

A
costumed staff member waves from the shelter's "burro-car."
Contributing:
Chris Hawley in Mexico City